Welcome to OldIHC, the world’s largest web site specifically dedicated to the older IHC trucks. The Old International Harvester Truck Special Interest Group fosters the enjoyment and fun of restoring antique IHC trucks. Through the OLD IHC SIG, IHC truck restorers, owners and other interested parties can exchange information while maintaining the camaraderie and good fellowship of an on-line, Internet-based truck owners group.How time flies. It feels like it was just yesterday when I started OldIHC. 10 of the guys on the old Binder Bulletin forum decided that we needed a website of our own.
Looking at the our traffic shows that we have had 1,260 page views last week. 16, 2015 through March 3, 2015) And it started with only 10 of us. Now, it is time to pass all of this onto others as my health is going in reverse.Today (March 4, 2015) I published the first version of the OldIHC droid app. I didn’t do this just for myself, I created it so that others who wanted to view the sites via the droid phone or tablet could. Now, you have good access when you need some information on the fly. You can download the droid app atSeveral People are beginning to ask how they can donate to support OldIHC.With this in mind, I am creating donation buttons on both the forums, and the classifieds.
Please feel free to help the costs with a small donation. Hay Y’all, Thanks for letting me join this site. For the past 7 months I’ve been working on a 47 kb2 pickup truck. I’ve spent all my free time on it, its all original except I’m missing the box for it. Its in pretty good shape, and I’ve found myself completely in love with it lol.
Tune-Up Specifications - Farmall & IH This data has been gathered from old out-of-print material. While we make every effort to be accurate, the information shown is to be used for general reference only. I have a 99 aurora 4.0 with roughly 190,000 miles on it and started having intermittent power losses and misses. She will sputter for a short while after starting down the road even after warm up and suddenly regain all the power after about a quarter mile down the road.
I paid 300 bucks for it, the owner at the time didn’t know much about it,just wanted it gone.I’ve got everything unceased on it,and it’s turning over and backfiring,I can’t seem to get it to run tho. I’ve got good spark and fuel going into the carb, points and timing seem good. I was really hoping to get the old green diamond running again, but I think maybe something internal is wrong with it. I’ve been using the internet to learn about it and what to check for. So I decided to join this site, because from what I’ve read throughout these forums time and time again. You guys are the masters of the old stove bolts and old stuff in general,any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
I know your post here is 5 months old now, but I’ll reply anyhow. If you’re still having trouble getting the engine running, I’d offer a few suggestions: 1) Don’t get overly impatient to hear it run—–it sounds like you fell into a gold mine here!!
If you try to strong-arm it into running, you’ll most likely damage parts that are very difficult (not to mention VERY expensive) to find replacements for. Take your time; find a local old geezer who knows this old iron, and cultivate a good relationship with him (or her). Their knowledge will prove invaluable!!! 2) Be prepared to spend lots of time, and a healthy amount of money on your new love. 3) In my humble opinion, you have found here the premier website for IH owners. Visit it often, and learn how to use the forums. Good luck with your project!!!!!!!!!
It sounds like to me with the information provided that the following problem may exist:1: The relationship between the camshaft (which opens and closes the intake and exhaust valves) and the crankshaft (moves the piston up and down the cylinders) is out of sync, this is known as jump timing and occurs when the chain that goes around the crank and cam gears stretches to an amount that allows the chain to jump a tooth or too.2; You didn’t state whether the backfire occurred thru the carb or if it was in the exhaust. This would be important to evaluate this possible problem It is possible that one or even both of the intake or exhaust values are not setting or part of the valves are burnt away causing an improper sealing of the combustion camber.3: If you are using the old sparkplug wires they maybe allowing the spark to jump from the intended plug wire to another wire therefor having that cylinder fire when one or both of it’s valves are open.4 this same effect could come from the dist. Cap or rotor in the cap look for what can be best describe as white or gray lighting marks on the inside of the cap, on the rotor look at the where it slides on to the dist. Shaft for same lighting marks also look at the tip you’ll notice two blocks of material where the metal contact leaves the rotor one may be broke or missing.Hope this helps you find your problem. Other suggestions in general would be to add a little automatic trans fluid into the engine oil and pour a small amount into the carb ( this is best done once you get the engine running but can be done with it not running) if you do it with out it running you’ll want to crank the engine several times to get the oil distributed thru out the upper cylinders and let it sit overnight, what this does is automatic trans fluid is super high cleaning as well as a fine lubricate as your motor has been sitting for a long time the ring maybe frozen and therefor won’t seal correctly. The trans fluid well allow them to free up and give you better compression.Good luck. I have just recently become an owner of a 1936 I H Truck, —— the vehicle was acquired with only a bill of sale ( No official paper documentation ) & to give You a hint of what a greenhorn I am,I’m not sure what Model it is, —- I think either a C-30 or C-35???
( 1 1/2 Ton Dually ) — there appears to be no data or any vin type plate anywhere & both the previously mentioned Guesses look the same to me in any photos I’ve seen. Can someone help me Identify What I Have? When I took possession there was nothing attached to the chassis behind the cab & I have since built a wooden flatbed, I was told by former owner it was originally a Farm Truck, Hence the Flatbed.Any Input would be Greatly appreciated, Sincerely Paul Coward – Lake George, N.Y. Have you figured out your power steering upgrade yet? I can tell you how a friend of mine upgraded his 67 Ford F-100 4×4 power steering.
He didn’t want power assist ram type used by Ford for many years. They leak a lot and don’t work as well as a power steering box. He used a GM Saginaw power steering box from a mid 70’s Old’s. Whether you need to no not, he used the complete column as he want the tilt wheel too. He built a pitman arm by cutting the Ford and the GM arm into and welding the two needed halves together.
He’s had this truck for as long as I’ve known him. He hauls a cord a firewood and his snowmobile on that truck.
The Saginaw power steering box is a proven part and a good choice.